Wi-Fi cannot be sorted out from a catalog. The right solution depends on how the building is built, and is settled by measurement.
That is why so many people buy a repeater that changes nothing. Wi-Fi passes badly through concrete, metal and water: a load-bearing wall, a reinforced floor, a service cupboard or a large treated-glass window stop the signal far more effectively than distance does. Two homes of identical size can call for opposite solutions.
We measure signal strength room by room, in real conditions of use. That measurement answers three questions: where the signal collapses, why it collapses at that particular spot, and which bands are saturated by the neighbors.
It avoids two expensive mistakes: installing a repeater in an area where it will receive nothing decent to rebroadcast, and buying a multi-point system when simply moving the router would have done.
Where the router sits. On the floor, in a closed cabinet, behind a TV or in the hallway of a through-plan home, it loses much of its range. Up high, in the open, as central as possible: that move alone settles an appreciable share of cases.
Separating the bands. Recent routers broadcast on 2.4 and 5 GHz under a single name. The first carries far but tops out low and is shared with every neighbor; the second is much faster but passes badly through walls. A device sitting at the edge of 5 GHz range spends its time switching between the two, which produces exactly the micro-drop-outs people describe to us.
The channel. In an apartment building, dozens of routers share the same frequencies. A channel chosen by hand, based on what the neighbors are doing, sometimes improves stability considerably.
The repeater: the cheapest, the most disappointing. It halves the speed and only rebroadcasts what it receives. Keep it for small areas with a single weak spot, halfway from the router.
Powerline adapters: excellent value for reaching a floor or an isolated room, provided the sockets are on the same electrical circuit. A test beforehand avoids a nasty surprise.
A multi-point system: the best answer for a house on several levels or extensive premises, and the most expensive. Ideally the main unit is connected by cable.
A cable plus an access point: the most reliable and often the cheapest for the result obtained.
It is the most useful setting and the least used. It creates a second network, with its own key, giving access to the internet without giving access to your computers, your printers or your shared files.
In a home, it saves having to give your main key to every visitor - and therefore having to change it afterwards. In a shop or a practice, it keeps customers off the working network. Most routers offer it, and almost nobody switches it on.
The needs change scale. A single access point can cover an open floor but collapses beyond around twenty simultaneous devices. Several coordinated points allow movement from one end of the premises to the other with no drop-out, which matters for mobile use - stocktaking, a mobile till, tablets.
To that add separating the uses: workstations, visitors, connected equipment. See securing a business network.
A simple test avoids a lot of pointless spending: connect a computer to the router with a cable. If the speed is just as bad there, the problem is the line or the subscription, and no wireless equipment will change anything. See our article on slow internet despite fiber.
People always think in terms of area to cover, rarely in terms of how many devices are connected. Yet that is often where the trouble lies. Between the computers, the family's or the team's phones, the TV, the speakers, the games console, the cameras and the connected objects, an entry-level router quickly finds itself handling thirty or forty simultaneous connections.
The symptom is distinctive: everything works in the morning and degrades in the evening, or as soon as several people are around. Clearing out the registered devices and spreading the load across the two bands is sometimes enough to settle it without buying anything.
We always check three points: the encryption in use, which must be recent, how strong the key is, and above all the router's administration password - left at its factory value in most of the installations we take over. See also our article on finding your Wi-Fi password.
Well placed, yes. Badly placed, it makes things worse by rebroadcasting an already weak signal and halving the speed. Where it sits matters far more than what it cost.
No. They need both sockets to be on the same meter, and their performance depends on the electrical installation. A test beforehand tells you in ten minutes whether it will work.
If it is more than five years old, swapping it with your operator often brings a real gain, and it is generally free. That does not replace good placement.
Yes, with an access point built for outdoor use or a cable run to the building. It is a frequent request, and it can be done properly.
Can't find your question? It may be in our full FAQ.
Everything worth knowing before you hand over your equipment.
278 questions on breakdowns, security, networking and backup.
What the households and businesses we work with have to say.
Lyon, Villeurbanne, Caluire, Tassin, Écully and the whole Rhône.
Describe your problem: we reply with an initial assessment.
We measure coverage before any purchase: that is what avoids the useless repeater.
Automatic assistant: it can make mistakes. Never share a password or a card number.